Hangboard Techniques: How to Build Finger Strength for Climbing
Finger strength is one of the most crucial physical attributes for rock climbers. Whether you are working on small crimp holds, gripping a sloper, or trying to maintain your balance on a tricky slab, having strong fingers can significantly improve your climbing performance. While climbing itself develops finger strength, dedicated training on a hangboard (also known as a fingerboard) allows you to isolate and target specific muscles and tendons in your hands, fingers, and forearms. This article will explore key hangboard techniques to help you safely and effectively build finger strength for climbing.
Why Hangboard Training Matters
As climbing difficulty increases, so does the demand on your fingers. More advanced routes often feature tiny holds and demanding grip positions that require substantial finger strength. While regular climbing strengthens your fingers over time, the hangboard is a tool that allows you to focus directly on this aspect of your fitness.
Hangboarding provides several benefits:
Isolated Training: It allows you to train specific finger grips and build the strength needed for small holds.
Strength and Endurance: You can target both maximum strength for short, powerful moves and endurance for longer climbs or boulder problems.
Controlled Progression: With hangboarding, you can easily track and measure your progress by adjusting the difficulty of the holds, adding weight, or increasing the duration of your hangs.
However, hangboard training also carries risks, particularly for beginners. Before starting, it is essential to ensure that your fingers are conditioned from climbing to avoid injuries. Tendons and ligaments take longer to adapt than muscles, so jumping into hangboard training too early can lead to injury.
When to Start Hangboard Training
If you have been consistently climbing for less than six months, focus on building finger strength through regular climbing before incorporating hangboard exercises. Most experts recommend waiting until you can comfortably climb at least V2 bouldering or 5.10 routes before starting hangboard training. Once your fingers are accustomed to the stresses of climbing, hangboarding can be introduced to further develop strength and endurance.
Hangboard Techniques for Finger Strength
Here are the most effective hangboard techniques that target various grips and finger positions. These exercises should be performed with caution and proper form to avoid injury.
- Dead Hangs
Dead hangs are one of the foundational hangboard exercises. They involve hanging from the board without any dynamic movement, making them a safe and straightforward way to build baseline finger strength. Dead hangs can be performed on various types of holds, from jugs to small edges, depending on your ability.
How to perform dead hangs:
Choose a hold that you can grip for 7-10 seconds. Beginners should start with larger holds like jugs or comfortable edges, while more advanced climbers can use smaller edges or slopers.
Engage your shoulders to avoid putting unnecessary strain on your fingers. Your arms should be straight, but not locked, and your body should hang freely.
Hold for 7-10 seconds, then rest for 2-3 minutes.
Perform 4-5 sets of dead hangs, adjusting the difficulty by using smaller holds or adding weight as you progress.
Why it works:
Dead hangs are excellent for building finger strength because they isolate the muscles and tendons in your fingers and forearms. Over time, they increase your ability to hold small and difficult grips.
- Repeaters
Repeaters are a dynamic version of the dead hang and are designed to build both finger strength and endurance. This exercise involves repeatedly hanging and resting in short intervals, mimicking the effort of repeatedly gripping holds during a climb.
How to perform repeaters:
Choose a moderate hold that allows you to hang comfortably for 7 seconds.
Hang for 7 seconds, then rest for 3 seconds. This is one repeater.
Repeat this sequence 5-7 times to complete one set.
Rest for 2-3 minutes between sets, and aim for 4-5 sets.
Why it works:
Repeaters build endurance in your fingers and forearms, which is essential for longer routes where you need to sustain your grip over time. The short rests simulate the recovery time between moves when climbing.
- Max Hangs
Max hangs are all about building raw finger strength. They involve hanging from the smallest hold you can safely manage or using additional weight to push your maximum effort. This technique trains your fingers to hold intense loads for short periods.
How to perform max hangs:
Select the smallest edge or crimp that you can hang from for 7-10 seconds. If you find larger holds too easy, you can add weight using a weight vest or hang weights from your harness.
Hang for 7-10 seconds at maximum effort, making sure to engage your shoulders and maintain good form.
Rest for 3-5 minutes between sets.
Perform 3-4 sets.
Why it works:
Max hangs target peak strength, helping you develop the power needed to grip small edges and crimps. This is especially beneficial for harder routes and boulder problems where small holds are common.
- Tension Hangs
Tension hangs focus on improving overall body tension and coordination in addition to finger strength. By engaging your entire body while hanging from the board, you learn to maintain tension through your core, legs, and arms, which is essential for maintaining balance and control on steep or technical climbs.
How to perform tension hangs:
Select a large hold such as a jug or comfortable edge.
Hang while actively engaging your core, glutes, and legs. Keep your body tight and avoid swinging.
Hold this tension for 10-15 seconds, then rest for 2-3 minutes.
Perform 3-4 sets.
Why it works:
Tension hangs help climbers develop the full-body strength and control needed to keep their body stable while gripping holds. This exercise is particularly helpful for steep or overhanging climbs, where body tension is crucial.
Structuring a Hangboard Routine
A well-rounded hangboard routine incorporates both strength and endurance exercises. Depending on your climbing goals, you can vary your routine to target different aspects of finger strength.
Sample Beginner Hangboard Routine (2x per week):
Warm-up: 10-15 minutes of light cardio, followed by finger stretches and some easy climbing.
Dead Hangs: 5 sets of 10-second hangs with 2-3 minutes of rest between each set.
Repeaters: 4 sets of 5 repeaters (7 seconds on, 3 seconds off), resting 2-3 minutes between sets.
Cool-down: Finger stretches, massage, and forearm stretches to promote recovery.
Sample Advanced Hangboard Routine (2-3x per week):
Warm-up: Same as above.
Max Hangs: 5 sets of 7-second hangs on small edges or with added weight, resting 3-5 minutes between sets.
Repeaters: 6 sets of 7 repeaters, with 2-3 minutes of rest between sets.
Tension Hangs: 4 sets of 10-second tension hangs on large holds.
Cool-down: As above.
Safety and Injury Prevention
While hangboarding is a highly effective method for building finger strength, it also carries a risk of injury, particularly to your tendons and pulleys. Follow these safety tips to reduce the risk of injury:
Conclusion
Hangboard training is a powerful tool for building the finger strength necessary for climbing harder routes and boulder problems. By mastering techniques like dead hangs, repeaters, max hangs, and tension hangs, you can develop a well-rounded foundation of finger strength and endurance. Remember to progress gradually, listen to your body, and prioritize injury prevention to make the most of your hangboard sessions. With consistent effort and smart training, you’ll see improvements in your grip strength and climbing performance over time.