Choosing the Right Hangboard: A Guide for Rock Climbers
Hangboarding has become a staple of serious rock climbers’ training routines, offering a targeted way to build finger strength, improve grip endurance, and push climbing performance to new levels. Whether you're a beginner looking to supplement your climbing sessions with some strength training or an advanced climber aiming to fine-tune your abilities, choosing the right hangboard is crucial for getting the most out of your workouts. With a range of designs, materials, and features available, selecting the ideal hangboard can feel overwhelming.
In this guide, we’ll explore everything you need to know about choosing the right hangboard for your needs. From material and hold variety to mounting options and pricing, this comprehensive breakdown will help you make an informed decision.
Why Use a Hangboard?
Hangboards, also known as fingerboards, are designed to help climbers improve finger strength, forearm endurance, and overall grip. By providing a variety of holds that simulate the types of grips used in climbing, hangboards allow for focused and efficient strength training.
Some key benefits of hangboarding include:
Targeted finger and forearm strength: Develop strength in the fingers and hands, particularly for gripping small holds.
Increased grip endurance: Build the stamina needed for longer climbs or endurance-heavy routes.
Injury prevention: Strengthen tendons and ligaments in the hands and fingers to reduce the risk of injury during intense climbs.
Versatile training tool: Hangboards can be used anywhere, from home gyms to door frames, making them a convenient option for climbers at any level.
Factors to Consider When Choosing a Hangboard
There are several factors to keep in mind when selecting a hangboard, including the material, hold variety, and overall difficulty. Here's a closer look at the most important considerations:
- Material: Wood vs. Resin
One of the first decisions you'll need to make is whether you prefer a wood or resin (plastic) hangboard. Both materials have distinct advantages and disadvantages, and the choice largely depends on your personal preferences and training goals.
Wood Hangboards: Wood hangboards are smooth and gentle on the skin, making them a great option for those who want to reduce skin wear or who train frequently. They tend to have less friction than resin boards, forcing climbers to engage more actively to stay on the holds.
Pros:
Gentle on the skin, reducing the risk of skin tears or abrasions.
Allows for longer training sessions without damaging your fingers.
Sleek, aesthetic design for home setups.
Cons:
Less friction, which can feel slippery, especially if you sweat easily.
Fewer texture options than resin boards.
Resin Hangboards: Resin hangboards offer a greater variety of hold shapes, sizes, and textures. They tend to provide more friction, making them feel grippier and more forgiving, especially on smaller holds. Resin boards are typically more durable and weather-resistant, making them ideal for outdoor setups.
Pros:
More grip and friction for training on smaller holds.
Durable and versatile, with a wider range of holds.
Often more affordable than wood.
Cons:
Rougher on the skin, which can lead to quicker skin fatigue.
Some climbers find resin boards too abrasive for long training sessions.
- Hold Variety and Grip Types
Hangboards come with a variety of holds, each designed to mimic different grip types used in climbing. Choosing a board that offers a range of hold types is essential for balanced strength development. Common hold types include:
Jugs: Large, comfortable holds ideal for warming up or for beginners learning to hangboard. They allow you to engage your shoulders and core without placing too much strain on your fingers.
Edges: Small, flat holds that challenge finger strength. The depth of edges can vary, with shallower edges requiring more precise grip techniques. Edges are commonly used for crimping, which is an important skill for advanced climbers.
Slopers: Rounded holds that rely on open-hand grip strength and body tension rather than pure finger strength. These are essential for training balance and friction-based grips.
Pockets: Holds with space for one to three fingers, simulating specific grip scenarios found on certain climbs. These are great for training finger-specific strength and precision.
Crimps: Small, sharp holds that demand strong finger tendons and precise hand positioning. These are more advanced and should be approached cautiously to avoid injury.
When choosing a hangboard, look for one that offers a mix of these hold types. Beginners will want more jugs and larger edges, while advanced climbers will benefit from slopers, crimps, and pockets.
- Size and Shape
Hangboards come in different sizes and shapes, depending on how much space you have available and what type of training you're focused on.
Compact Hangboards: These are smaller boards designed to fit into limited spaces, such as a doorway or a small apartment wall. Compact boards often have fewer holds but are still effective for basic finger strength training.
Full-Size Hangboards: These boards are larger and offer a greater variety of holds. If you have space and are looking to improve across different grip types, a full-size hangboard is the best option.
Ergonomic and Modular Hangboards: Some hangboards are designed with ergonomic grips to reduce the risk of injury. Modular hangboards can be customized by swapping out different holds, allowing you to adjust your training as you progress.
Choose a hangboard that fits your space while offering the hold variety you need for effective training.
- Skill Level
Your climbing ability plays a crucial role in choosing the right hangboard. Beginners should start with boards that have larger holds, such as jugs and deep edges, which are easier to grip and allow you to build basic finger strength without overloading your tendons.
Intermediate climbers can move on to boards with more advanced holds, such as slopers, shallow edges, and pockets. These boards challenge your fingers and forearms, helping you develop the strength needed for more difficult routes.
Advanced climbers, especially those tackling high-level bouldering or sport routes, may want hangboards that offer small crimps, two-finger pockets, and challenging slopers. These types of holds are ideal for training high-intensity finger strength.
- Mounting Options
Most hangboards need to be mounted securely to a wall, doorway, or training station. Before purchasing a hangboard, ensure you have the necessary space and tools to install it properly. Some hangboards come with mounting hardware, while others require additional brackets or screws.
For renters or those unable to drill into walls, there are portable hangboards that can be hung over a doorway or used with a pull-up bar. These are convenient and easy to set up, though they may offer fewer hold options.
- Price and Durability
Hangboards range in price from budget-friendly models to more expensive, feature-rich boards. Resin boards are typically less expensive than wood boards, but wood boards are more skin-friendly and aesthetically pleasing for home use. When deciding how much to invest, consider your long-term training goals and how often you’ll use the board.
Additionally, durability is an important factor. Resin boards tend to be more resistant to wear and tear, especially for outdoor setups. Wooden boards, while more gentle on the skin, may wear down over time with frequent use.
Popular Hangboard Models
Here are a few popular hangboards that cater to different skill levels:
Beginner:
Metolius Project Board: A budget-friendly resin board with jugs, slopers, and edges perfect for beginners.
Trango Rock Prodigy Training Center: Ergonomic design with a variety of holds suited for beginner to intermediate climbers.
Intermediate:
Beastmaker 1000: A wooden board with a mix of jugs, edges, and pockets, designed for those looking to improve finger strength.
Metolius Simulator 3D: A large resin board offering a wide range of holds, ideal for building endurance and strength.
Advanced:
Beastmaker 2000: Designed for advanced climbers, this wooden board features small edges, two-finger pockets, and challenging crimps.
So iLL Iron Palm: Known for its unique design and sloper-focused holds, this resin board is great for high-level climbers.
Conclusion
Choosing the right hangboard is an essential step for any climber looking to enhance their training routine. By considering factors like material, hold variety, size, skill level, and mounting options, you can select a hangboard that fits your specific needs and goals. Whether you’re just starting or looking to push your climbing limits, the right hangboard will help you develop the finger strength, grip endurance, and technique needed to excel on the wall.